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Radiant Heaters
Warmth, without compromise
Radiant heaters deliver targeted warmth with even heat distribution, with no drafts and no cold spots, creating a quiet, allergy‑friendly ambience indoors and out. Engineered with infrared technology, HEATSCOPE® radiant heaters pair energy‑efficient performance with refined design, offering fast, comfortable heat and lower running costs for contemporary spaces.
Models
Showing 5 items of 5
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Carbon spiral heating technology
Dual carbon heating spirals power our radiant heaters with reduced visible light and a naturally cosy feel.
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Energy‑efficient radiant heaters
HEATSCOPE radiant heaters convert 90–94% of energy into ambient warmth for low running costs and high comfort.
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Rapid heat‑up times
Spot radiant heaters reach full output in about 15 seconds; Pure and Vision models ramp quickly owing to the glass‑ceramic front.
Two‑stage output control
Radiant heaters with 50% and 100% output modes via remote or hardwire for precise zone heating and energy optimisation.
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Outdoor‑ready IP protection
Pure radiant heaters are IP65 rated for exposed installs; Spot and Vision are IP24 for well‑covered areas.
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FAQ's
Is radiant heating suitable for all room types?
Radiant heating is suitable for most room types, with a few environment-specific exceptions to guide installation decisions.
Heatscope radiant heaters work well in living areas, dining rooms, bedrooms, kitchens, bathrooms, hallways, and open-plan spaces. The infrared heat carries through air without relying on ventilation or air circulation, making it particularly effective in enclosed, draught-prone, or high-ceiling rooms where forced-air systems underperform. Heat reaches occupants directly rather than dissipating overhead.
Environments where standard installation is not appropriate:
German-engineered and Red Dot Design Award winning, Heatscope heaters are tested rigorously across climates. The technology's independence from ducting and gas lines lets it adapt to any room geometry without constraining architecture.
How do electric outdoor radiant heaters compare to gas patio heaters?
For patio heating, electric outdoor radiant heaters and gas patio heaters take fundamentally different approaches, and the right choice depends on your space, design priorities, and how you want to operate the system. HEATSCOPE electric infrared heaters convert up to 94 percent of input energy directly into radiant warmth, heating people and surfaces within seconds with no combustion, no flue, and no fuel storage. Gas patio heaters burn LPG or natural gas to push out higher peak output, but much of that heats the surrounding air through convection, which dissipates quickly outdoors and in wind.
The practical differences across installation, maintenance, and design are:
- Installation: Electric is hardwired to a 220-240V circuit and mounts flush to a wall, ceiling, or extension rod. Gas needs either a piped supply with a licensed gas fitter or a swappable cylinder with floor space for the unit.
- Maintenance: Electric heaters have no burners, valves, or ignition components to service. Gas requires regular maintenance of those parts and periodic cylinder replacement.
- Use in covered spaces: Electric produces no combustion byproducts, making it fully suitable for enclosed alfresco areas, undercroft patios, and pergolas. Gas patio heaters require open or well-ventilated settings, which limits where they can be installed.
- Design: Electric infrared offers slimline aluminium chassis in black or white, smart-home control, and award-winning low-profile aesthetics. Gas patio heaters are typically freestanding units with a visible flame.
- Weather resistance: HEATSCOPE electric models carry IP25 to IP65 ratings for fixed outdoor exposure.
For design-led, low-maintenance patio heating, electric infrared is the clear specification choice, particularly in covered or semi-enclosed spaces where gas cannot go.
How much does it cost to run an outdoor radiant heater per hour?
The hourly cost of running an outdoor radiant heater is calculated by multiplying the heater's wattage (in kilowatts) by your local electricity rate per kWh. For example, a 3,000W heater running at full output draws 3.0 kWh per hour, so at $0.30 (USD) per kWh the cost works out to $0.90 (USD) per hour.
Across the HEATSCOPE range, full-output draw sits between 1.6 kWh and 3.2 kWh per hour, depending on the model you choose. To estimate your own hourly cost, use the formula:
- (heater watts ÷ 1,000) × your local rate per kWh = cost per hour
Two-stage output is the practical lever for managing that cost. Every HEATSCOPE model runs at either 100% or 50%, which halves the energy draw whenever full power isn't needed, on milder evenings, in sheltered courtyards, or once the area has warmed. A 3,000W heater on the lower setting consumes just 1.5 kWh per hour.
Efficiency keeps the running figure honest. Because 87-94% of input energy converts directly to radiant heat that warms people and surfaces rather than the surrounding air, none of the energy is lost up a flue or carried away by crosswinds. You pay for warmth you actually feel.
Does my HEATSCOPE® radiant heater need to be on a Safety Switch (RCD)?
Yes, your HEATSCOPE® radiant heater must be connected to a residual current device (RCD), commonly called a safety switch in Australia. This requirement is set out in AS/NZS 3000:2018, the Australian and New Zealand wiring rules that govern all electrical installations.
The RCD protects the circuit by detecting electrical faults and disconnecting the power in milliseconds, preventing electric shock and fire risk. It is a standard requirement for all fixed electrical appliances in Australia and New Zealand, not a feature of the heater itself, but rather a circuit-level protection device that your electrician will install as part of the installation.
Your installation must be completed by an authorised electrician who will confirm the RCD is sized correctly for your heater's requirements and complies with local regulations.
How do HEATSCOPE® radiant heaters compare to other outdoor electric heaters?
HEATSCOPE® radiant heaters deliver direct heat transfer using mid-wave infrared technology that penetrates the first skin layers, creating genuine sun-like warmth rather than surface heating. Unlike many electric outdoor heaters that rely on short-wave infrared producing bright red glows and uncomfortable high-intensity heat, HEATSCOPE® heaters use colour-matched grill screens to reduce light output to just 30-40% of traditional radiant heaters. The Spot series produces approximately 600 lumens (per product specifications), whilst the Vision and Pure Plus ranges deliver less than 300 lumens, preserving outdoor ambience without harsh brightness.
The engineering differences extend to durability and materials. HEATSCOPE® heaters use carbon fibre heating elements and, in the Pure Plus range, SCHOTT NEXTREMA® premium convex glass, a material exclusivity among electric infrared heaters. The Pure model achieves IP65 weather resistance (dust and waterproof), exceeding the typical IPX5 rating of competitors, ensuring reliable outdoor performance across seasons.
For connected home environments, an optional ZigBee Bridge enables wireless control, motion sensors for automated triggering, and compatibility with Alexa and Google Assistant. An optional WiFi Smart Switch adds smartphone app control. Dual power levels at 50% and 100% output allow precise zone heating for energy efficiency without waste.
What BTU output do I need to heat an outdoor patio effectively?
For an outdoor patio, plan on roughly 1,000W (around 3,400 BTU/hr) of radiant output per 2-3 square metres of seating zone you actually want to keep warm, then adjust up or down for wind, climate, and how exposed the space is. Heatscope outdoor radiant heaters warm people and surfaces directly rather than heating the air, so the conventional gas-heater BTU maths does not apply. Very little energy is lost to drafts, and 87-94% of input wattage reaches the people below.
To work out the right output for your patio, weigh four factors:
- Footprint and seating zones. Define the area people will sit or stand in, not the whole patio. A 2,800W unit (about 9,500 BTU/hr) suits an intimate two to four-person setting; 3,000-3,200W units (roughly 10,200-10,900 BTU/hr) cover larger lounge or dining zones.
- Coverage type. Pergolas, eaves, and semi-enclosed patios hold radiant warmth well, so you can size at the lower end. Fully open decks and rooftops need higher wattage or a second unit.
- Climate and wind. Cool-temperate climates and exposed coastal sites push you toward 3,000W and above. Sheltered courtyards in milder zones run comfortably on 1,600-2,400W.
- Mounting height. Standard installation sits at 2,100-2,400 mm [83-94 in]. Higher mounts spread heat wider but reduce intensity at seated height, so larger or higher-mounted spaces benefit from multiple lower-output heaters spaced evenly rather than one high-output unit.
If you're between two outputs, choose the higher one with two-stage control. You can run at 50% on milder evenings and keep full output in reserve for genuinely cold nights.
Are outdoor radiant heaters suitable for use under a pergola or covered patio?
Weather-resistant outdoor radiant heaters are a natural fit for pergolas and covered patios, and in many ways these structures are the ideal environment for infrared heating. The overhead cover holds warmth in place, the surrounding posts and screens reduce wind, and the directional infrared beam delivers comfort straight to seated guests rather than wasting energy heating the open air above them.
For architects and designers, the appeal is integration as much as performance. German-engineered Heatscope heaters mount flush to ceilings or beams with a low-profile aluminium or glass-ceramic face, swivel joints for precise angling, and 100, 300 or 500 mm extension rods that bring the unit down from a high-pitched roof to the right working height. Visible light output stays minimal, so the architecture reads first and the heat source recedes.
The one design decision worth making early is matching the weatherproof rating to how exposed the structure is. A fully enclosed pergola with a solid roof and side screens suits models rated for sheltered outdoor installation. A pergola open on multiple sides, exposed to driving rain or coastal spray, calls for an IP65-rated heater built to handle full water-jet conditions without a protective shield. Once that match is right, infrared becomes one of the most effective ways to extend outdoor living into the cooler months without altering the sightlines of the space.
What safety certifications should outdoor electric heaters have?
Weather-resistant outdoor electric heaters should carry an IP (Ingress Protection) rating to IEC 60529, CE marking confirming compliance with electrical safety directives, and residual current device (RCD) protection as a hardwired installation requirement.
IP ratings are the most critical certification for outdoor use. The first digit indicates dust protection; the second indicates water resistance. IP24 is the minimum for covered patio installations, IP44 suits alfresco areas exposed to water spray from any direction, and IP65 confirms full protection against water jets and wind-driven dust, appropriate for fully exposed outdoor positions. Matching the heater's IP rating to the exposure level of the installation is the most important purchasing decision.
CE marking confirms that a heater meets European Union health, safety, and environmental requirements. For markets outside Europe, look for equivalent regional marks from independent certification bodies that verify electrical safety.
All Heatscope heaters carry model-specific IP ratings verified through testing protocols developed in Germany. Installation requires a licensed electrician with RCD protection built into the dedicated circuit, a safety requirement that applies across all IP ratings.
What are the main advantages of HEATSCOPE® radiant heaters compared to gas-powered heating appliances?
Direct heat transfer is the defining advantage of HEATSCOPE® radiant heaters. Unlike gas heating, which heats the air first and loses warmth to wind and surroundings, infrared heaters beam radiant heat directly to people and objects. You feel warmth in seconds rather than minutes, and wind does not steal the heat, a critical edge in outdoor settings.
Beyond heat delivery, electric infrared eliminates the infrastructure demands of gas. No gas lines, no flue or ventilation requirements, no specialist fitters. Wall or ceiling mounting takes two screws and a 220-240V circuit, freeing floor space and keeping heaters out of reach. Zero combustion byproducts mean the units are safe for enclosed outdoor spaces (patios under pergolas, covered dining areas, outdoor rooms) where ventilation limits would rule out gas.
The reliability advantage is significant. No valves, ignition components, or burners to service. No annual maintenance, seasonal prep, or gas-pressure issues. Silent operation with no fans stirring dust or allergens. One installation and the heater runs flawlessly year after year: the set-and-forget simplicity that appeals to hospitality operators and discerning homeowners alike.
When you compare the total ownership experience, including instant heat, no emissions, design freedom, and zero-service reliability, the case for radiant electric is compelling.
What IP rating should I look for in an outdoor electric heater?
The IP rating you should look for in an outdoor electric heater depends on how exposed the installation site is, but the code itself tells you exactly what protection you are getting. IP stands for Ingress Protection, and every rating uses two digits: the first (0-6) measures protection against dust and solid particles, and the second (0-9) measures protection against water.
For a Heatscope outdoor electric infrared heater, the second digit is the one that does the heavy lifting. A '5' means the housing withstands water jets from any direction, which is what fully exposed sites need. A '4' handles splashing water but not driven rain. A '6' in the first position means the unit is fully dust-tight, useful in coastal, bushland, or worksite settings where airborne grit is a factor.
To choose the right rating, walk the installation site and check three things:
- Overhead cover. Is the heater under a solid roof, a slatted pergola, or open sky?
- Wind exposure. Does prevailing wind drive rain sideways into the mounting position?
- Airborne dust. Is the area near sand, soil, salt spray, or construction?
The more you answer 'exposed,' the higher both digits need to be. Heatscope models are independently certified across a range of IP ratings suited to sheltered through fully exposed installations, so the right heater can be matched precisely to the site.












